How to install the tile: Step by step procedure for installation of tiles
So, you are ready to know how to the installation of tiles done? Great! You might be thinking that the task of bed in a floor tile looks simple enough that you can be ready to tackle it yourself. Even if you have little knowledge of undertaking installation of tiles of work, you can turn into a bit of an expert installer, or at least learn exactly how to bed in floor tiles like a pro. Read on to understand the process and know what to do to create a great looking floor.
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The surface on which tiles are installed it is spotless, even, and waterless for the finest results. Takings while to renovation spot, and smooth any dented or rough areas. Verify again to confirm that the surface is anatomically good and without grease and any kind of lubricant.
In the case of a brick masonry wall, the joints shall be uprooted to a depth of at least 15 mm while masonry is being laid. In the case of a concrete wall, the surface will be chiseled and rough with a wire brush. The surface shall be thoroughly cleaned and wetted before beginning the laying work.
Start your layout:
A good looking floor tile should be related to how the layout has been completed and how straight the lines can be. For an efficient layout, start by marking the focal point of each of the walls in the room. Next, snap chalk lines between the center points of the opposite walls to indicate the center of the room. Make any necessary adjustments to ensure that the intersection forms the correct square. Remember, sometimes, and depending on the configuration of the room, this cannot be achieved, and a different approach will be followed.
Starting at the center point, lay a line of loose tiles along the center lines in both directions, using tile spacers as you go for similar joints. Once you reach the walls, you will need to cut the tiles for a proper fit. If the required cut is smaller than half of a tile, you can adjust the centerline by snapping a new line of half-tile size closer to the wall. If necessary, repeat this step along the intersecting centerline for precise design.
To make a larger room more manageable, divide each section into smaller 2 ‘x 3’ grids, which cut and separate additional lines parallel to the centers.
If the difference between the last tile and the wall is more than 1/2 tile, adjust the tile on one side or another. If the layout is approved by your customer or if you are satisfied, proceed to the next step.
Cut tiles as per requirement:
Start by carefully marking the measured cut-to-mark with a pencil or felt-tip pen on the tile surface. You can use a tile cutter to achieve straight or diagonal cuts. For best results cut the curved with a nipper, cutting small pieces.
For any full-length curved cut, a rod saw is best suited to handle the task. After your cut, smoothen out any sharp edges with a Carborundum stone to give your tile a soft finish.
The holes required for the Nahani trap, any other fittings will be made.
Set your tiles:
Now that you have primed the surface, set the layout, and cut the tile, you are all set for the actual installation of tiles.
Begin by installing the tiles in the center of the room, one grid at a time, finishing each grid before moving on to the next. Within each grid, starting the first tile in the corner and working outwards will help.
Laying of wall tiles:
The wall surface shall be covered with a 10 mm thick cement mortar 1: 3 (1-cement: 3-fine sand) mixture and shall be allowed to harden. The plaster will be rough with wire brushes both ways. The grey cement slurry and edges behind the tiles will be set in bed mortar with white mortar. The tiles should be taped slowly one after the other to keep the joints as thin as possible. The top of the skirting or dado will be truly horizontal and vertical of the joints or according to the required pattern.
Skirting and dado’s razor will rest on top of the floor. Where full-size tiles cannot be fixed, they will be cut to the required size and the edges will be smoothed.
The joints will be cleaned and flushed with white cement. The surface will be kept wet for seven days. Surfaces will be washed clean after treatment.
Laying of floor tiles:
Baking cement mortar 1: 6 (1 cement: 6 coarse sand) for vitrified tiles shall have an average thickness of 20 mm. Subgrades will be cleaned, wet, and mopped. You can also use adhesive material specified by the manufacture.
The mortar of the specified mixture and thickness will then be spread over a sufficient area to obtain a tile. The tiles shall be cleaned before laying. This top will be held down, gently leveling it with another slab. Then it will be picked up and set aside. The top surface of the mortar will then be cured by adding fresh mortar to a hollow or depression. The mortar will be allowed to harden again. On this surface, a cement solution such as honey will be applied.
The tiles should then be gently positioned and tapped with a wooden mallet until it is properly level and close to the surrounding slab. The joint will be as possible. The junction between the wall floors will be neatly finished. There will be greed for levels and slopes to direct the finished surface.
The floor shall be kept wet for a minimum period of 7 days. So that the bed and joints are set properly.
Before grouting the joints, check that the tiles are correctly placed and fully anchored on the substrate. The substrate must be completely dry. Grout joints according to the indicated waiting time on the relative data sheet for the adhesive used. For mortar substrate, wait at least 7–14 days depending on the poor thickness, ambient weather conditions, and level of coverings and absorption of the substrate.
Any water or moisture rising can cause vapor pressure to accumulate, which may in turn loosen the tiles on account of the complete non-absorbency of the grout or the tiles themselves.
The joints should be free of any excess adhesion, even if already hardened. Also, they should be of uniform depth for the entire width of the tile, ensuring maximum chemical resistance.
Any dust and loose debris should be removed from the joints by careful cleaning with a vacuum cleaner.
Before grouting the joints, check the cleanability to cover the tile, as porous or highly micro-porous surfaces can make cleaning difficult. It is advised not to perform preliminary testing on tiles or in a small, hidden area.
After surface preparation, the joints should be filled with standard pre-grout material to a depth of 12 mm. The remaining 5 to 6 mm should be filled with the EPOXY Grout Material of the standard company like kerakoll.
Finally, the Installation of tiles floor is not a difficult task and in the same way, not a simple one to work on. Therefore a correct installation of tiles requires some extra care and caution. If you find this difficult in DIY, you can hire a professional to get the installation right.
you can also check out our post on different types of tiles available in the market here.